Icomb to Stow-on-the-Wold

Icomb

Like many of the other small Cotswolds villages, Icomb appears in the Domesday Book, listed as Iacumbe. Many of the existing traditional cottages were built in the 11th and 12th centuries and are spread neatly round a triangular village green, home to a war memorial in the shape of a Celtic cross. The village church of St Mary the Virgin is Grade 1 listed and was built in the 13th century. It houses the tomb of Sir John Blaket who fought with King Henry V at Agincourt.

Walk up the pretty village street behind the war memorial and turn first left, where the road begins to ascend quite steeply. Turn left at the top and after a fairly short distance, turn right (where there is a road sign to Little Rissington/Bledington). A shortish climb later (0.3 miles) turn right onto a bridle path marked 'Private. Bridle path only. No motor vehicles.'

Stay on the bridle path for 1.6 miles. It's a steady upward climb, passing through pretty countryside. At the top of the path, where the road forks, turn left and walk past Half Moon House (Chapel Street) and keep walking straight for half a mile, over the crossroads and past Maugersbury Manor, until you reach Stow on the Wold. Turning left here takes you to the town centre.

Stow-on-the-Wold

Because of its position, where 8 roads meet, Stow on the Wold has always been a thriving market town. Today it has plenty of independent, interesting shops and a great choice of places to eat and drink, perfect for tourists. Looking at it now, it's difficult to imagine its bloody history.

The first English Civil War was raging in 1646. In March, King Charles 1 was waiting in Oxford for promised reinforcements from Ireland, Scotland and France and Sir Jacob Astley was heading down from the North and the Midlands to join him with more men. Unfortunately for him, a Parliamentary force was waiting for him in Stow on the Wold and so what was to be the final battle of the war took place just there. The Royalists were surrounded and mostly slaughtered by the members of the New Model Army. The streets were said to run with blood and even those who had sought sanctuary in St Edward's Church were captured and killed. By May, the King had surrendered.

The Porch House

Many of the buildings around the Square today would have seen the battle. The Porch House, for example (sometimes known as the Royalist Hotel), has the reputation of being Britain's oldest inn, having been built in 947AD and so was already nearly 700 years old at the time. The King's Arms actually housed King Charles himself in 1645.

St Edward's Church

Just off the market square, is the Grade 1 listed St Edward's Church. The stone church was probably built in the 11th century to replace an existing wooden structure. It underwent constant restoration, alterations and additions over the centuries, mostly financed by the wealthy wool merchants of the town. As well as its involvement during the civil war, the members of the church played an important role caring for the health and welfare of the people of the town.

In 2002, the church held the funeral of John Entwistle, the bass guitarist from The Who, a Stow on the Wold resident for many years.

The North Porch

One of the most interesting features of the church are the doors in the North Porch.

With its arch of stained glass and flanked by ancient yew trees, it has been rumoured that the doors were the inspiration for Tolkien's Doors of Durin, guarding the Mines of Moria in 'The Hobbit' and 'Lord of the Rings'. Even if this isn't true, they make a great photo opportunity!

Although this will be a challenging walk for some, it's definitely worth the effort.

Sue McGreal